The New Old Country - Wall Street Journal
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The New Old CountryWall Street Journal - Sep 27, 2008Krakow attracts scores of young Britons who've discovered that it's cheaper to book a flight on Ryanair for a beer-soaked weekend in Poland than to get ... |
The New Old Country - Wall Street Journal
World Business Markets Tech Personal Finance Life & Style Opinion Careers Real Estate Small Business QUICK LINKS : Wall Street CrisisCampaign 2008Heard on the StreetMarket DataManagementHealthWSJ. MagazineArts & Entertainment Autos Books Fashion Food & Drink Sports Travel WSJ. Yet while airports and train stations are humming, getting around isn't an endless series of battles for transportation, lodging and information. And as a bonus, there's the thrill of vacationing in a place whose name most of your neighbors won't recognize."A lot of Americans like the idea of getting some place first," says Amy Ziff, who follows travel trends for the online booking company Travelocity. Each year as the summer travel season begins, Travelocity computes where Americans are going and how big a slice of that travel pie each part of the world can expect. Ziff says, Western Europe's share was down 15% while Eastern Europe was up 16%. Ryanair flies nonstop to Bydgoszcz, Poland, from England, Ireland and Germany. Visit the fjords around Kotor, Montenegro. Check out the Black Sea beaches at Constanta, Romania, or Nessebar, Bulgaria.Rising numbers, though, have brought Eastern Europe some of the same problems that bedevil many mass-tourism destinations. Krakow attracts scores of young Britons who've discovered that it's cheaper to book a flight on Ryanair for a beer-soaked weekend in Poland than to get drunk in London. Cesky Krumlov, in the Czech Republic, with its coach buses and tour groups obediently following flag-waving guides, is starting to feel like a medieval Disneyland. And the infrastructure of Eastern Europe still isn't up to that of the West. Take a train in Poland and you are likely to creep along as if you were traveling half a century ago.Places that once struggled to attract tourists now worry about where to put them. Foreign visitors to Krakow last year numbered 2.5 million -- almost quadruple the number in 2003. Ten years ago, most tourists arrived from Western Europe by bus or train, or they caught a connecting flight in Warsaw.Another prime example is in Slovenia, once part of the former Yugoslavia (and today often confused with Slovakia to the northeast). Slovenia's capital, Ljubljana (loob-lee-YA-na), went from unknown to trendy in just a few years. But be warned: It has so few hotel rooms that by early June the best places are largely booked for summer.CorbisCesky Krumlov, Czech republicTrip AdviserLjubljanaGetting there: Slovenia's Adria Airlines flies direct from Europe. Where to stay: The splendid Antiq Hotel fills up far in advance; a double room with private bath starts at about $212. Rooms at the City Hotel are around $160, 15 Dalmatinova St., 386-1-239-0000. Tour As agency has short-term apartment rentals, 8 Mala Ulica, 386-1-434-2664. Where to eat: At Sokol, traditional fare is about $25 a person. Juliana serves Mediterranean-style fish, about $35 a person. Where to stay: The Ascot Hotel has good Internet, great breakfasts and rooms around $180. Where to eat: At Restaurant Farina, nouvelle Polish dishes are light, flavorful and about $30 a person. Pijalnia Czekolady is all chocolate, 46 Rynek Glowny, 48-12-429-4085.Cesky KrumlovGetting there: Buses leave often from Prague for the three-hour drive. Where to stay: The medieval Hotel Ruze exudes atmosphere, about $350 a night. Rooms at the Hotel Zlaty Andel are scattered among old townhouses, about $175. Where to eat: Marek Simon, on the riverfront, serves fine Czech cuisine, about $20 a person. Plus, mountain lakes and the Adriatic coast are just an hour or two away. I had no idea what I'd find when I went there. But taking everything into account -- scenery, food, prices and the friendliness of the people -- I think Slovenia can qualify as Europe's single best country for tourism.Arriving in Ljubljana is like turning the clock back 50 years. The local road from the tiny airport into town is lined with trees and grass. The train station is so close to the Old City that you can walk to most hotels. Tourist information is available at the station in two small rooms, one devoted to transport and the other to local attractions. I asked the man at the tourism counter what happens to people who show up without a reservation in this city of just 16 hotels. Little did I suspect I'd end up in what may be the nicest accommodations I've ever had in Europe. My reward for walking up five flights of stairs (the medieval buildings have no elevators) was a big penthouse apartment in an impeccably renovated building next to Town Hall, with a terrace, modern kitchen and bathroom and high-speed Internet. Three dollars buys a coffee drink at the fanciest sidewalk café; a main course at a nice restaurant goes for about $15 or $20. Each day at the Old Town's vast outdoor market, a big truck pulls up loaded with sardines, squid and other delicacies from the Adriatic Sea, a 90-minute drive away. The seafood is grilled on the spot; you pick it up at the truck and eat at wooden picnic tables. Two people can stuff themselves for $15.There's usually a price to pay for straying too far from Europe's attractive old cities. Wander outside the scenic center, and you'll often find yourself in a neighborhood of ugly high-rises. A 10-minute walk from my apartment took me to Tivoli Park, where I can have hiked for the whole day without crossing a road. The farther you go from the capital, the more impressive the scenery becomes. Lake Bled, an hour away by bus or train, is surrounded by snow-capped mountains. There's a hilly wine country dotted with historic villages on the way to the coast. And 75 miles from Ljubljana is the coastal town of Piran, a perfectly preserved medieval city whose steep and narrow cobblestone streets are a walker's delight.If it all sounds too good to be true, it may in fact be just that. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. Please enter a different email address: Newsletter SignupEnter Your EmailSign UpSIGN UP Thank you ! You will receive in your inbox Terms and Conditions Go to Email Center null Email Newsletters and AlertsThe latest news and analysis delivered to your in-box. Please enter a different email address: Enter Your EmailSign UpSIGN UPNew! To sign up for Keyword or Symbol Alerts click here.To view or change all of your email settings, visit the Email Setup Center. Thank you !You will receive in your inbox. 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